Tag: make money from web scraping

How You Can Leverage AI for Massive Passive IncomeContinue reading on Medium »

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Can Wealth Dream Code really unlock your financial potential, or is it just another online money-making scheme? If you’re curious about…Continue reading on Medium »

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Passive income is a revenue model where the work done once continues to generate income over the long term. 🌐🎨💸 Thanks to the…Continue reading on Medium »

The allure of online income is undeniable. Visions of passive revenue streams, location independence, and escaping the 9-to-5 grind dance…Continue reading on Medium »

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Self-promotion (ie posting about projects/businesses that you operate and can profit from) is typically a practice that is discouraged in /r/financialindependence, and these posts are removed through moderation. This is a thread where those rules do not apply. However, please do not post referral links in this thread. Use this thread to talk about your blog, talk about your business, ask for feedback, etc. If the self-promotion starts to leak outside of this thread, we will once again return to a time where 100% of self-promotion posts are banned. Please use this space wisely. Link-only posts will be removed. Put some effort into it. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

I was listening to the ChooseFI episode 538 today. I've noticed this in other episodes as well.. They were talking about how the guests at one point were just a few years from FI a while back, but since the market went crazy lately (up quickly) they are now even closer than they expected to be at this point. Other times, and the way that makes sense to me, they say on average the market goes up ~8% per year. Sometimes it's up 20% for a few years in a row but that averages out with when it's down a few years in a row to be about 8%. So which is it? If your FI number is 1.2M, and your sitting at 1M invested, then your investments go up 20% over the year, are you now FI at 1.2M or are you figuring you are actually at 1.08M? This gets complicated figuring previous years in of course. What method do you use? CAPE ratio? Check lifetime returns and adjust accordingly? Something else? I suppose you generally just go with what your account says, if you have your FI number then you're FI. If you don't, you aren't. It just seems a bit different if the previous say, 5 years averaged 30% returns vs 6% returns (just for stark contrast). Thought it might be an interesting discussion. submitted by /u/BinghamL [link] [comments]

Click, deposit, profit: The simple bank bonus strategy I useContinue reading on Financial Strategy »

Making money online is tough — there’s no denying it. The endless strategies, tools, and so-called “guru advice” can leave you spinning…Continue reading on Medium »

It's almost the end of the third month of 2025 but still, few of you are struggling for financial freedom.Continue reading on No Time »

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High-quality fake notes and clone cards have gained significant popularity. If you’re a collector, a fan of custom items, or someone…Continue reading on Medium »

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Why 2025 is the Perfect Time to Cash In on What You LoveContinue reading on Medium »

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The 101 Finger Touch Formula for Financial Success: A Proven System for Achieving Wealth in 2025Continue reading on Medium »

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Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Hello all! Looking for some advice on the possibility of a new car. 37 male, DINK, ~12-15 years from FI and paid off mortgage. Currently own a 2017 Rav 4 hybrid, only 52k miles. I put on 7k miles a year and my commute to and from work is just under 9 miles. I have done basic maintenance and gotten tires on it, etc, and otherwise it's fine. It's fully paid off, and I have been putting in 3-5k/year in an s&p type ETF as a 'new car fund' for when it's time, currently about 13k. My FIL and wife just got plug in EVs and are pretty high on them. They just got a charger installed at their office (family business, 5 min from home) where my wife would fill my car up once or twice a week (free fuel) . I wanted to look into the possibility of upgrading and jump on the bandwagon but I'm struggling with the decision. I was looking at a Prius prime xse, and the lease deal is trade in my car (valued at 17k), get 3k back in cash, and no lease payments or interest or taxes/fees (included). The buyout would be 19k in 3 years, which I'd use the new car fund for, and during and after this time I'd continue to put money in (in addition to the 3k). My FIL and wife's argument is that I should get the car because my current cars value and this deal, and the fuel thing, seems to be a good value before my car depreciates further and starts needing higher maintenance costs like a battery. So I had chatgpt run some scenarios, which take into account taxes, fees, maintenance, residual value, needing a car at the end of each timeline: " Final Thoughts Scenario 3 (Prius for 5 yrs then New Car) shows the lowest effective cost ($37,825) and a healthy ending NCF (≈$43K), thanks to a high residual value at 5 years. Scenario 2 (Prius for 10 yrs) has a very competitive total effective cost ($49,250) but a lower ending NCF due to the larger early withdrawal. Scenario 1 (RAV4 for 10 yrs) and Scenario 5 (RAV4 for 15 yrs) preserve more of your NCF, though they require higher effective outlays when you eventually buy a new car. Scenario 4 (Prius for 15 yrs) results in a higher overall cost and a lower NCF, due to extended operating costs and a larger new-car purchase cost at 15 years. " Some of these scenarios look pretty good but I'm still skeptical. My wife's final argument was that this is the reason I have a new car fund because in the back of my mind I was thinking I'd just and up using it to get me to FI faster. Not to mention the new car is pretty damn sweet. Any thoughts? I figured this community would give me the best insight. Thanks! submitted by /u/Sokolowskierj [link] [comments]

Hello all, Sorry if this topic has been discussed before, but as someone who is around 8 years away from FIRE, and who is constantly seeking better and easier ways to plan for that day, I've used all sorts of asset tracking methods from spreadsheets, to apps. One thing I've noticed is that most apps don't do traditional finance and digital assets well together, unless I've missed to try some. So far I've tried Google Sheets & Excel, with different formulas and such,to calculate stock and ETF price changes, tried to manually capture dividend income (hectic and time consuming). I've tried apps such as DivTracker, dashboard.io, getquin, and while they all do most things well, they either have a high premium package rate, or don't track crypto in addition to traditional assets. I've uses coingecko and similar for digital assets, however for the sake of simplicity, and to avoid using multiple apps for different asset types, then aggregation then manually, I'm looking for suggestions and advice, on the matter of the existence of a unified platform that does all my portfolio management for me. Doesn't have to be free, I'm happy to pay a reasonable price for a premium service, if it meets my needs. Apologies again if this has been asked elsewhere, keep investing and FIRE away! submitted by /u/EfficiencyEvening [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Follow up to original post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/financialindependence/comments/16r5wgk/just_hit_275k_invested_25m/ 602k Net Worth (~25k in cash across $20k in HYSA / $2k in HSA / $3k Checking) - 26M I originally wanted to wait until I hit $600k invested to post for the cooler number, but I’m trying to be more consistent with these updates. Not to brag, but to track my progress and mindset around investing each year, and hopefully get some feedback along the way. A huge thank you to r/bogleheads, the FIRE Movement, and the Money Guy Show (have any of you been watching their Making a Millionaire show? I find it way more interesting than Caleb Hammer's content, personally). I do want to acknowledge that I’ve been extremely fortunate with my income this past year. My side job turned into a second full-time role, and my gross income for 2024 is around ~$250k. I’m not sure if that’s sustainable long-term, but I’m trying to make the most of it while it lasts. Right now, my rent is $1,250/month, my job pays for my gym and internet, I don’t own a car, and I’ve been fairly frugal. I took some advice from my last post (shoutout to u/jsir1999, u/khangaroofinance, and others) and read Die With Zero. It’s been helpful in reminding me that it’s important to balance saving with enjoying life. I’m trying not to sacrifice experiences just for the sake of accumulating wealth, and I’ve found that spending more on things doesn’t make me happier—only experiences do. Simple things like cooking meals with family or going to the gym/watching shows with my friends bring me a lot of joy, and they don’t cost much. Investing Update: Not much has changed in terms of my investing strategy since my last update, but I’ve been consistent in contributing as much as I can from each paycheck. I’m still focusing on a mix of low-cost index funds and contributing to my tax-advantaged accounts (HSA and 401k). My priority is to continue automating my investments and avoid making emotional decisions based on short-term market movements. While I haven’t made any major shifts in my portfolio, I’m happy with the discipline I’ve built and the progress I’ve made. For this edition’s book recommendation, I want to suggest The Power of Now. At first, it might seem like one of those self-help books that’s not really practical, but I think it’s really relevant here. Many of us (myself included) can get hyper-focused on the future and forget to enjoy the present moment. I’ve found that shifting my mindset has helped me find more balance in my life. submitted by /u/VirtualProfessor5527 [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Hello People, I’m currently 42 years old and trying to determine when I can afford to leave my high-paying but high-stress job. I’d love some input on my financial situation and possible retirement timeline. Current Financial Snapshot: Liquid Assets: $50K in cash, $50K in collectibles (Lego!), $20K in Bitcoin Investments: $200K in Treasury Bonds (4.2%), $600K in a 401K/Brokerage (contributing 15% yearly, ~$15K) Real Estate (Paid Off): Primary residence – $600K Rental 1 – $700K (Net income: $24K/year) Rental 2 – $240K (Net income: $12K/year) Current Job: $120K/year (high-stress, want to quit in max 5 years) Planned Lower-Stress Job (BaristaFIRE?): $45K/year (low-stress, good medical benefits, ~$23/hr) Expenses: Current annual spending: $100K (until my daughter finishes college in 12 years) Future spending: ~$80K/year The Big Question: I want to know when I can realistically transition out of my high-paying job and move into a lower-stress role (or even retire early). My primary concerns are: How long should I keep working at my current job before switching to the lower-paying one? Is my investment portfolio strong enough to sustain early retirement within the next 10-15 years? Thank you guys in advance! submitted by /u/diabloiij [link] [comments]

I have the option in my company to take 1 year sabbatical that I can extend 2 times all the way to 3 year in total. So I have the option to come back to work, after 1, 2 or 3 years. Suppose I have reached my FI number, have a good paying job, and a nagging one more year syndrome (which can be quite good to pad the portfolio and lower the risk). I am just throwing the idea here to get your opinion: what if instead of quitting/firing, I take this sabbatical for 2 or 3 years, go 100% equities (instead of doing some elaborate bond tent or whatever to diminish the sequence of return risk), and reevaluate after 2 or 3 years where I am at in terms of balance ? If numbers are still good, keep retiring, if they are down, one or two more years it is and back to DCA in a possibly much cheaper (and thus better foward looking returns) market... ? Have I solved the sequence of return risk using long term sabbaticals ? PS: sorry English is not my first language submitted by /u/demoxmo [link] [comments]

Hello! I live in the VHCOL area of the SF Bay Area. It’s the best place in the country to be a nurse for my savings rate. All of my family is in this area so currently at this stage of life I don’t see myself leaving this area. I make $150-220k a year depending on how much I want to work. My required minimum of 24 hours a week gives me $150k. My biggest goals in life would be to work part-time doing two 12 hour shifts a week, get married and have a stay at home wife, and raise kids together. I would then use the difference in my time to be a part-time stay at home dad and travel very often as well with my family. Currently, I’m just trying to travel the world as often as I can before I get married. It’s a big enough part of my life that I could see myself spending $20-$40,000 a year. Here are my stats. Everything I own is in the s&p 500: $420k in brokerage $135k in 401k $40k in IRA No debt Renting an apartment Single I am maxing out my 401k each year. No longer contributing to IRAs because I’d rather have the money more liquid in a brokerage account to use for a home purchase. I roughly save at least $3500-5000 a month and put it all in the brokerage. At this rate it’s likely to have 1.25-1.5 million in my brokerage alone in the next 6-8 years. However old fixer upper homes in my area start at that price. Given the current interest rate environment that we are in it seems like it is actually cheaper to rent and invest the difference into my brokerage account and keep on growing my stocks, and also maxing out my 401(k), than to buy a home. From what I could see after the numbers it seems like the only way that a home is a better financial decision in this area is if you put 100% down which I could do in about a decade, but is that even a wise decision at that point? Should I rent or buy? If I buy, what is the most effective way to use my money to do this? It seems the longer I hold onto this brokerage account for long enough it will actually rapidly surpass how fast a house can gain equity and increase in value. If I were to buy my rough plan was to continue working and pull out about 100 or $200,000 from the brokerage account each year to pay down the loan assuming I have married and filing jointly at that point. Every resource I look at says that I should be invested in IRA, but in this scenario of wanting to buy a home, is it sensible to do so? Another thought is that as a Christian, I want to give large sums of money to organizations and churches that I care about. If I rent, I could very easily give away $100,000 a year in a decades time, which could be much more fulfilling than owning a house. What are some good tax strategies for excessive giving? If I rent, then I would very likely be able to retire before 40 years old. But I will probably still just work the bare minimum hours to keep benefits and give myself something to do. Another question I have is that I’m a really good saver, but I have such a hard time spending money. Any resources for how to shift my mindset from saver to wise spender? submitted by /u/Huge_Pool305 [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Let's say that a couple is retring tomorrow with annual expenses of 115k. Let's assume that, combined, they have 500k in ROTH and 2 million in pre-tax IRA that they are eligible to withdraw right away. Let's assume that their pension and social security are secure for their lifetimes. Let's also assume that they have no mortgage or any other debt. Starting 3 years from now, they'll have a pension of 20k/yr for person 1. Starting 7 years from now, they'll have 25k/yr in social security for person 1. Starting 10 years from now, they'll have 45k/yr in pension for person 2. Starting 14 years from now, they'll have 25k/yr in social security for person 2. How secure would you consider their retirement for an annual spending of 115/yr? If they still had 2 million in IRA, but nothing in roth, how secure would they be? What is the minimum that you personally would want to have saved in retirement accounts if you were on their shoes, assuming that the same pensions and social security payouts? submitted by /u/Winter-Information-4 [link] [comments]

I (42F) am about to inherent a significant amount of money (a little over $1 million). I would like to finish paying off my house ($96k left) and build an extension/second story with a two or three bedroom apartment that I can rent out for passive income. My hope, is that when I place the remaining $700k or so in a trust, that it can be in some sort of savings account situation where the interest will be sent to me on a monthly basis and I can retire and focus on my writing career that cut short when I got pregnant. That way that premium won't be touched, and my children will have additional inheritance along with my life insurance. How would I go about that? I have a lawyer to assist with forming the trust, and I have a recommendation for a financial advisor. I am very nervous about messing things up. This is more money than I've ever had to manage at one time, and I do not want to mess things up. People don't get chances like this, and I don't want to screw it up. I almost just want to put it in an annuity and forget about it. But I have a chronic illness and working is getting very difficult. My career path, though I'm in management and make good money, it's a very physically demanding job and it's starting to add up. I have other income coming in from an at home job (I work two fulltime jobs), so the potential incoming income would be from my work from home job, rental money, and interest from the inheritance. And whatever books I would sell, lol, but I haven't done that in decades, so I'm not really counting that. So, I guess it would be a partial retirement. Is this a possibility? Or a pipe dream? submitted by /u/MediumSpaces [link] [comments]

Hi all, I've been lurking here for a while and wanted to finally make a post to get anyone's thoughts on where things stand for me. I just turned 25 and want to make sure l'm on the right track for my near term plans and goals, any input/ advice is greatly appreciated! Details • Income is 100k/year in a VHCOL area (NYC) • 401k: $31k • Brokerage: $21k • Roth IRA: $18k • MMF: $15k (serves as my emergency fund, planning to use 35% soon as I plan to move in with partner next month) • Checking: $4.7k • No debt • Total NW ~ $90k At the moment I max out my Roth IRA every year, and contribute 5% to my 401k to get my employer match (100% of first 3%, 50% of next 2). I also set aside $150/ month to my brokerage and $150/month to my MMF. l've also started contributing to a 529 which at the moment has a little less than $100 (opened it this year lol). I also usually receive a performance-based bonus each year (15%) but don't want to factor in/rely on in the case I don't receive. Ideally would like to get married to my partner in the next 5 years, and ultimately buy a house/start a family in the next 10. Goal is to ideally stay in the NYC-metropolitan area long term as close family and friends are here, but want to see if something needs to change lifestyle wise for this to be realistic. I'm excluding my partners numbers as again I don't want to rely on, but they make 20% more than me annually and are much farther ahead when it comes to retirement savings. Thanks! submitted by /u/Select_Job1101 [link] [comments]

I need help correcting a rollover mistake that involved both after-tax and pre-tax IRA funds. My original goal was to complete a Backdoor Roth conversion, but I mistakenly rolled everything into my workplace 401(k) (Fidelity) instead. Breakdown of What Happened: I originally contributed to a Roth IRA, but my income was too high, so I recharacterized it into my Rolloverl IRA. I then made a non-deductible Traditional IRA contribution into my Rollover IRA. My Rollover IRA contained both pre-tax and after-tax dollars before I took any further action. Instead of doing a Roth conversion, I mistakenly rolled over the entire Rollover IRA (both pre-tax and after-tax funds) into my workplace 401(k) (Fidelity). Now, my 401(k) contains commingled pre-tax and after-tax dollars from this rollover. Fidelity says they cannot reverse the rollover, but they do allow rollovers from my 401(k) back to a Traditional IRA. What I Want to Do: Properly complete the Backdoor Roth and ensure the after-tax money gets converted tax-free without triggering double taxation. Keep the pre-tax money in my 401(k) (or move it back if necessary) to avoid the pro-rata rule when converting to Roth. Key Questions: If I roll money back from my 401(k) to an IRA, how do I separate pre-tax vs. after-tax funds? Can I then convert only the after-tax portion to a Roth IRA tax-free? Can I roll the pre-tax portion back into my 401(k) after the Roth conversion to avoid pro-rata issues? How do I correctly track the IRA basis on Form 8606 given these transactions? Has anyone successfully navigated a similar situation, and what steps did you take? Any guidance would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! submitted by /u/amrabujafar [link] [comments]

Self-promotion (ie posting about projects/businesses that you operate and can profit from) is typically a practice that is discouraged in /r/financialindependence, and these posts are removed through moderation. This is a thread where those rules do not apply. However, please do not post referral links in this thread. Use this thread to talk about your blog, talk about your business, ask for feedback, etc. If the self-promotion starts to leak outside of this thread, we will once again return to a time where 100% of self-promotion posts are banned. Please use this space wisely. Link-only posts will be removed. Put some effort into it. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

On this board the decision to retire is often framed as a question of hitting a certain number based on a “Safe Withdrawal Rate”. This is often for the purpose of making projections and so on, but still a lot of mental energy is spent discussing this or that number, or estimating one’s progress toward it, etc. What follows is a more holistic way of approaching early retirement, considering your withdrawal rate along with certain additional factors that could trigger retirement even if you have not hit 25X or 30X spending. Basically, as you approach a true Safe Withdrawal Rate, you can start to balance the risk of running out of money based on current spending versus other factors First, determine your financial independence baseline. Financial independence is more of a continuum than an on/off switch. The more multiples of your expenses you have saved, the less risky your retirement. Depending on how much you have saved, you will need more factors on the side of retiring now. If you have achieved 20X expenses, you can retire with some risk. With average returns you will be fine, but with a market crash early in retirement there is a chance you could be forced to go back to work or dramatically reduce your lifestyle. You should have multiple additional factors on the side of retirement. If you have achieved 25X expenses, you can retire with minimal (but some) risk. With extremely bad returns there is a chance you could be forced to go back to work or dramatically reduce your lifestyle. Still, retiring is probably the right decision, especially if you have at least one additional factor on the side of retirement. At 30X expenses or higher, you are basically safe to retire immediately, regardless of additional factors. Second, consider additional factors for/against retirement. Again, the more you have saved, the fewer of these you need. Is your budget flexible? If your budget includes a lot of discretionary spending, you can easily cut expenses and lower your withdrawal rate should you encounter a poor sequence of returns. In actuality you have already achieved a Safe Withdrawal Rate, you are simply choosing to spend more. Do you really, really hate your job? If your job is having a noticeable effect on your physical or mental health, retirement could be worth the risk. Even though you would be taking some financial risk with an aggressive retirement, you would certainly be making yourself miserable while also risking your physical and mental health. Do you have a biological reason to retire now? Perhaps your retirement dream involves physical things that you won’t be able to do at a more advanced age. Perhaps you have kids and don’t want to waste their childhood at your job. Perhaps you have a chronic illness or you have always wanted to retire by XX age for whatever reason. Aggressive reitrement may be worth the risk if there is a biological reason to retire now. Do you have the ability to earn income in retirement? This could be through freelance work in your professional field, or something completely different like working in a coffee shop. Either way, a small amount of extra income could reduce stress on your portfolio in a poor sequence of returns scenario. As long as you are able and willing to work at least part time in retirement, you could run the risk of an aggressive retirement. Is the market at low valuations? Perhaps you have your recently surpassed your FI number only to have the market crash. If you are close to your FI number in a low valuation market, you can theoretically retire with approximately the same confidence as someone at their FI number in a high valuation market. You can probably think of other “additional factors”. The point is, the decision to retire is not like an on/off switch determined purely by a mathematical calculation. There are other factors to consider. This is a general framework for considering them. submitted by /u/aristotelian74 [link] [comments]

I have a top third income, a relatively stable job, and a decent nest egg. By any objective measure I am doing well. Logically, I know that, but I don't seem able to appreciate it emotionally. I find myself spending an obscene amount of time day-to-day pouring over spreadsheets, obsessing over imagined catastrophes, or planning for the worst - all to no good productive end, and I dont know how to break out of it. This isn't a question about spending on needs vs wants as I feel I have a good balance, and it's not a social media jealousy problem as I don't participate (outside of subs like these). I'm looking for reads or advice that could help bring some rational context to my position. Specifically - books along the line of this study regarding money and happiness https://www.pnas.org/doi/10.1073/pnas.1011492107#sec-1. How do you find balance and the space to appreciate what you have? submitted by /u/lizref [link] [comments]

I'm 37/m and just hit NW of just over $1 million. No kids or plan to have any and I rent so aside from a $100k e-fund sitting in HYSA the rest of the money is in the market in 401k / Roth IRA / HSA or post-tax brokerage accounts (VFIAX and VINIX). My FIRE number is $3-5 million ($120k/yr comfortably, ideally). I make ~$500k/yr more or less in finance (a big portion of my pay is in bonus which can be variable). I work long hours, and am always on including nights and weekends if work needs to be done, so it's hard to have any kind of life outside of work, and when I'm not working I usually just want to veg out and watch TV or play some video games because I'm so burnt out. My job is stressful too so I'm always anxious about making mistakes, and it's an up-or-out culture so there's always anxiety around not being able to be here much longer. I have a lot of financial anxiety, probably based around my upbringing, which contributes to my concerns about being let go from my job. But it also keeps me from looking at lower-income, less stressful jobs where I'd probably be happier, because in my head I need to work here as long as I can to maximize my NW ASAP. I don't think I'll feel financially comfortable until I hit $3 million NW. My ultimate goal was to hit that $3-4 million and then buy a place and work a more chill job that covers the mortgage, if not retire completely. But I'm just really stressed out and unhappy with where I'm at, and the financial anxiety that'd be caused by quitting to either take a break or take a lower paying job keep me in this career. Any suggestions for how to handle financial anxiety or how to think about this? I don't even feel secure with the amount that I have because I'm not where I need to be yet and the idea of taking time off just makes me think that that time will just be spending money I'll have to replenish. Ugh. submitted by /u/Khayembii [link] [comments]