Tag: Side Money

The End of “Always Watching the Charts”Continue reading on Medium »

I’m sorry for the confusion. Let me explain how it really works.Continue reading on Pelican Point Publishing »

Highly profitable & beginner friendly — no personal branding required.Continue reading on Readers Club »

It’s not that difficult. follow these 5 processes.Continue reading on Medium »

You’re probably sitting in the driver’s seat of your car right now.Continue reading on Medium »

Both can make money… but only one forced me to become disciplined.Continue reading on Medium »

You’re not inconsistent, you’re just unclear.Continue reading on Medium »

The first question to ask yourself is this..Continue reading on Medium »

In the bustling world of online entrepreneurship, everyone talks about passive income. But what does it truly mean to have a business that…Continue reading on Medium »

Used to work 12 hours a day.Continue reading on Medium »

In this step-by-step guide we walk you through the basics of launching your first blog successfully. Follow these steps, and if necessary…Continue reading on Medium »

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

I know the conventional wisdom on here is that Roth 401k rarely makes sense vs. traditional, but I think my situation might be an exception — would love to hear pushback or confirmation. My situation: - Planning to retire in ~10 years, well before 59½ (early retirement / FIRE) - I have a 401k that allows both traditional and Roth contributions - I have an existing Roth IRA at Fidelity (5-year clock already running) - My current gap: I don't have enough in my taxable brokerage to bridge the ~5 years between early retirement and when my Roth conversion ladder becomes accessible My understanding of the mechanics: When I quit, I can roll my Roth 401k directly into my existing Roth IRA. The rolled-over *contributions* (basis) would be immediately accessible — no waiting period, no penalty — because they're treated as Roth IRA contributions post-rollover. Only the *earnings* would be locked until 59½ or a qualified distribution. My thinking: If that's correct, then Roth 401k contributions effectively function as a tax-free, penalty-free bridge fund for early retirement — arguably better than a taxable brokerage for that purpose, since there's no tax drag during accumulation and the contributions are just as liquid after rollover. So instead of diverting money to a taxable brokerage to build my bridge, I could lean harder into the Roth 401k and use the contribution basis as the bridge. Questions: Is my understanding of the rollover mechanics correct? Does this specific use case (early retirement, using Roth 401k basis as a bridge) actually justify Roth 401k over traditional + taxable brokerage? What am I missing or underweighting here? For context, I'm not choosing Roth 401k purely for the tax-free growth argument — I understand that's the one that usually falls apart. This is specifically about liquidity timing in an early retirement scenario. submitted by /u/WSBtoFIRE [link] [comments]

I’m 42M, no kids, no debt, paid-off condo living in HCOL area. My business has not been doing so well this year because of the economy and I am stressed out and burnt out. So, I will be closing it down by December. I want to take a 2 year sabbatical to improve my health and do some traveling. 12 years of doing my business has taken a toll on me and never really got to travel too much because of the time constraints. Current portfolio: $764K: $560K in VTI, $204K cash. I plan to invest $150K of the $204K cash into VXUS or QQQM and leave the rest in cash or bonds. Paid off condo worth around ~$630K. I have another $210K in an HYSA. I will be using some of this money for the two year sabbatical. My annual expenses are about $35K/year but plan to spend about $70K/year during the sabbatical because of traveling. Once the two year sabbatical is over, I already have plans to start a different business that is more meaningful and doesn’t carry all the stress. Some of my friends tell me it’s a bad idea to go on a 2 year sabbatical because a recession is looming around the corner. But I really feel like I need this for the sake of my physical and mental health. I would like to do some traveling while I’m still young too. I would like to start the 2 year sabbatical at the beginning of 2027. I’m open to advices. Thank you. submitted by /u/solo_entrepreneur [link] [comments]

I’ve been digging into 72(t) SEPP withdrawals (a method to access pre-tax funds before 59.5) and one thing that stands out is how rigid withdrawals can be and how you have to get the math correct or face substantial penalties. That said, there's a “partial escape hatch” that I don't see discussed very often. The IRS allows a one-time switch from the amortization (or annuitization) method to the RMD method during your SEPP schedule. Here’s a simplified example: You start a 72(t) at age 45. You isolate $1.5M of your pre-tax accounts into a separate IRA, use a 5% interest rate, and set up a fixed amortization schedule. That produces an annual fixed withdrawal of $86,733. Everything is fine until age 50, when your parent passes away. You inherit an IRA subject to the 10-year rule but where you’re also required to take RMDs. It’s sad that Mom or Dad passed, and it also throws a wrench in your income and tax planning. However, because of the one-time method switch rule, you could move from the amortization method to the RMD method for your SEPP. That would reduce your 72(t) withdrawal to ~$41,000 in that year, and you could then draw additional income from the inherited IRA as needed. Another cautionary example I’ve heard financial advisors bring up is someone who retires early and then later decides to go back to work. That’s a more benign version of the same idea: your income needs can change after you’ve already locked in a 72(t). It’s not a “get out of jail free” card, and it only works once (and in one direction), but it does add some flexibility in a system that otherwise has very little. submitted by /u/bridgeandretire [link] [comments]

There isn’t a genuinely straightforward method to earn money in 2026—any viable option demands either an investment of time, specific…Continue reading on Medium »

As mentioned in my last post, I'm posting this mostly for myself, but hopefully it will provide some encouragement to others. You may notice my last post was net worth and this one is invested. I'll touch on that later in the post. Income 2013-2020: <$28k - This was the most I ever made in a year, most years were lower May 2021: $85k - Starting salary out of college 2022: $100k 2023: $105k 2024: $112.5k 2025: $119.5k 2026: $126.5k 2021-2026 is all with the same company. Increases in income are due to raises. Assets $190,434 - 401k $51,482 - Roth IRA $7,106 - HYSA $8,133 - Crypto $286 - Cash Liabilities $3,192 - Student loans @ 2.75% $1,397 - Credit card (paid off in full every month) Invested (End of year) 2021: $15,600 2022: $64,172 I pulled this number from my spreadsheet. I don't know why it's larger than the number in my last post. 2023: $128,952 2024: $187,162 2025: $245,561 2026 (today): $251,995 What's new since 2023? I've experienced some major life milestones in the last few years. My partner and I got married and had a wonderful wedding with all of our friends and family. The wedding cost ~$35k, which was more than originally planned ($20k 😅), but it was a wonderful day and we'd do it again in a heartbeat. We were very fortunate that our parents pitched in ($9k), so our actual costs were lower. We would do a few things differently if we had the chance to do it again, but we have no regrets. In addition to getting married, we also purchased our first home! We weren't quite financially ready to buy, but a townhouse became available in our favorite neighborhood, and we felt the need to jump on it. We raided the wedding fund to cover the down payment and closing costs ($18k). The total cost of the house was $375k, and we are aggressively paying it down, with an extra $1000/mo payment to the principal. Our interest rate is 6.375%. To clear up any confusion about us pulling wedding fund money: yes, we bought the house before we the wedding. However, prior to all of this we were married in a courthouse. The wedding was more of a celebration than a ceremony. Between the wedding and the house, it's felt like a ton of money has been flying out the window, but I'm happy to see my number is still inching up. For additional clarity, I say "my number", because my partner and I have separate finances. They are financially responsible and on pace for an early retirement as well, but we've found it so much simpler to manage things individually. I know this can be a controversial topic, but it's worked for us in the several years we've been together. Why not include the house in your assets? Earlier in the post I mentioned that my old post covers my net worth while this one is just my invested assets. The main reason for that is I didn't have a house when I made that post and now I do. I don't want to include the value of my house because it's not something I can live off of. I think that's pretty common in the FIRE community. In addition, the house is one of our few joint assets, so I find it easier to leave it off. What's next? With both the house and the wedding, I've been feeling financially strained. My goal for 2026 is to get back on track. I plan to beef up my emergency fund to $15k and continue maxing my 401k and Roth. If I have anything left over, I'd like to start investing in a taxable account. It's always interesting to me how I was able to save so much when I started this job in 2021 and now I'm making $40k more and still saving roughly the same amount. Lifestyle inflation is real. As far as my career, I'm happy with where I am. I like the people I work with, and I feel like I'm valued and respected. I've received a raise every year I've been there, so that's a nice bonus. Maybe I could make more at another company, but my current job offers a ton of benefits I wouldn't be able to get elsewhere (mainly the very flexible PTO policy). For things outside of work, there are plenty of house projects I'm excited to tackle! We've been saving money each month into a "house maintenance" bucket and a "house fun" bucket. I'll let you all decide which one I'm looking forward to more. My partner and I also have several trips planned, as well as a few solo trips of my own, so I have plenty to keep my busy during the "boring middle". That's pretty much it. Again, I wanted to post this mainly for myself, but I'm happy to answer any questions. submitted by /u/permanent_guest [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Let me be honest with you — the first time I saw someone struggling with a feather flag in a parking lot for 45 minutes, I felt bad. Not…Continue reading on Medium »

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

TRY THIS NOWContinue reading on Write A Catalyst »

If you’ve been trying to make money online for any length of time, you already know how exhausting it gets. You build a site, wait six…Continue reading on Medium »

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

The official 2025 FI survey is now accepting responses! ALL data will be released in a spreadsheet to the sub. If you’re not comfortable with that, don’t take the survey. Whenever possible, identifying information (such as age) is obscured in ranges. The survey does not ask for location, username, email, or other unique information, so your privacy is reasonably protected. Because there are several numbers involved, here is a preparation spreadsheet you can use to organize your information before opening the survey itself. For previous results, go here. Survey Instructions These instructions are also available on the first screen of the survey, but you may want to keep this post open in a separate tab to refer back to them. Throughout the survey each section includes instructions at the top of the page as well. The survey will take approximately 20 minutes to complete, depending on how prepared you are with your numbers. Enter all annual information for calendar year 2025 (January 1 – December 31, 2025). Enter all point in time data (like account balances) as of December 31, 2025 (or as close thereto as you can get). Enter all amounts in current dollars (or your native currency). The survey asks how many people contribute to your household finances, and thereafter your responses should include all assets, debt, etc. belonging to those people. You determine the number of people who contribute to your finances. Demographic questions include demographics for "contributor 2" and "contributor 3", if you have more than one person contributing to your household income, you can include their demographic information there. Remember that personal finance is personal. Enter your numbers as you interpret them, personally. If you really get stuck, I will be watching the posting thread and answering interpretation questions as able. Because personal finance is personal, some buckets may not be precisely consistent with your personal buckets. You are able to return to the survey and edit your answers later if needed; just skip to the end and submit to get your return link. The survey will be open from April 17 – May 15. Enter dollar amounts as a whole number, appropriately rounded. E.G. $32,594.56 is entered as 32595, with no commas. Enter percentages as a number, not a decimal. For example, 4% is entered as 4 (not .04), 20.5% is entered as 20.5 (not .205), etc. Do not use symbols for dollars ($) or percentages (%). At the end of the survey, you will be asked for any comments on the survey. If you had any confusion or issues with a question, please refer to it in your comments by the question number plus a brief description of the question (question numbers change depending on your circumstances). Because the survey does not ask for identifying information, I will not be able to follow up with you, so please be as specific as you can about the issue or difficulty you encountered. Vague comments like “the question about income felt weird” cannot be acted on. Almost all questions are skippable; if a question does not apply to you or you haven't yet determined the answer, skip it. The survey will ask for an approximation of the cost of living for your area, use this Cost of Living Index to get as close as you can. If you are on mobile, find this number before you open the survey so you don’t lose your survey progress. Now that you’ve read all that… you can go take the survey! submitted by /u/Melonbalon [link] [comments]

maybe this is just me.. but I always thought getting close to FI would feel more clear instead it feels a bit… off? not about the numbers more like am I actually ready what if I change my mind later what if it just doesn’t feel how I expected hard to explain honestly curious if anyone else felt something similar before actually pulling the trigger submitted by /u/Beneficial-Ad-9986 [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Current situation: 24 yo, getting married this summer. Our finances are pretty much already combined. NW ~150k, mostly in cash and equities. Goal is to be FI in 11ish years by age 35. Currently on track to max my trad. 401k, Roth IRA, and HSA this year. From research and reading this sub, I thought even if you wanted to access funds before 59.5, the trad 401k was still probably best. We had a free session with a financial advisor recently just for the heck of it. He suggested lowering 401k contributions to just get employer match and either switch to Roth 401k or taxable investments. The rationale being that 401k money is locked up and you have to pay income tax on it even if using early withdrawal methods (72t, Roth ladder). And he argues that tax rates are likely to go up (even if we were to go down in brackets). This point makes relative sense to me but everything I've read says max traditional 401k -> HSA -> Roth IRA -> taxable investments. I definitely do want to contribute to taxable investments since the goal is aggresive. This year we are paying off student loans aggresively so are only investing a few hundred per month in taxable (and aren't budgeting to max my spouses roth IRA). So in future years we likely could max my spouses Roth IRA as well and contribute more to taxable investments. But what is the general consensus? Does it make sense to continue in traditional 401k or take some of that and put it into taxable accounts instead. TYIA Also if this context helps, HHI is 140-150k submitted by /u/Savings_Actuary_2833 [link] [comments]

Artificial Intelligence is no longer a futuristic concept… It’s here, it’s powerful, and it’s changing everything. From customer service…Continue reading on Medium »

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Self-promotion (ie posting about projects/businesses that you operate and can profit from) is typically a practice that is discouraged in /r/financialindependence, and these posts are removed through moderation. This is a thread where those rules do not apply. However, please do not post referral links in this thread. Use this thread to talk about your blog, talk about your business, ask for feedback, etc. If the self-promotion starts to leak outside of this thread, we will once again return to a time where 100% of self-promotion posts are banned. Please use this space wisely. Link-only posts will be removed. Put some effort into it. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

01 Datos centralizadosContinue reading on Medium »

1. 3x इन्वेस्टमेंट प्लान (The Martingale Strategy)Continue reading on Medium »

Wanted to update my previous post from 5-6 years ago. In Apr 2016 I had a net worth of $0. Between me and spouse we are now at $1,816K with a heavy mix towards our primary residence. Assets: https://imglink.cc/cdn/YgCMQ2i-th.png Liabilities: https://imglink.cc/cdn/0GBpjbZN_r.png Networth Trend Chart: https://imglink.cc/cdn/C2xS7h5O_N.png At this point im looking to add margin into my mix to drive further growth. I recently moved to my new house and converted my old property into a rental hence the big spike in debt. Our Household income is now $310K + 40K in bonsues + 40K in rental income. I live in Ontario Canada so pretty high tax rate which im starting to get frustrated with and gutted any real desire to increase my taxable income. This year we actually maxed out our RRSP and now dont have that much to work with to reduce taxes going forward. I have kinda given up on FIRE, inflation is a variable that is just too volatile and having spent the first 30 years of my life not really experiencing it and now seeing the compound effect of it and my govts decision to do nothing around it makes me feel its not really viable for me. Having given up on FIRE, made a massive lifestyle creep decision and purchase a big detached home in the suburbs for long term peace of mind (short term pain with housing costs basically doubling). submitted by /u/CADhouse [link] [comments]

GM All, (36M/35F)I know this is a small group of people that have allowed themselves the ability to embrace FIRE, but highly interested in hearing your stories. I’ve made a few posts around surpassing our FIRE goals with a plan of quitting my corporate career at the conclusion of parental leave in July. I’ve maintained a high-stress sales role in a corporate environment and admittedly, i’m not a very present person. Current plan is to quit at the conclusion of parental leave, while being added to my wife’s insurance. Ideally, take 6-12 months off, focus on family, recalibrate & decide what my future employment will look like. Brief snapshot of our Finances: 401k: $620k wife 401k: $122k IRA: $33k taxable brokerage: $497k HYSA: $132k Zero debt, home paid off annual expenses: $42k With my wife’s salary, we’d still be maxing her 401k, the IRA & investing about $1k/mo into taxable. I’m not quitting forever, but st the very least taking 6-12 months starting in August, to prioritize family. My wife wants me to quit, so that’s important to note. Anyways, for those temporary or permanent SAHM/SAHD’s, did leveraging your FIRE position improve your life? how long did you step away & did you notice anything impactful? submitted by /u/Aggravating_Bench552 [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

I thought I had it figured out for a second.Continue reading on Medium »

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

A risk-free experiment for real changeContinue reading on Write A Catalyst »

I’ll try to make this short and not drag it out. I have lived in a remote area in Canada with long harsh winters all my life. The winters are brutal with extreme colds often -40c and winter seems to drag on for 6 months. Long story short we had our first kid 2 years ago and have been talking about moving somewhere with a better climate and more outdoor activities available for our new young family. I have my mind set on 4 more years due to my wife staying home now instead of working until the kid starts school then she will go back to work. Financials are 32 years old with 820k invested in various accounts. Have about 180k in home equity. About 50k in paid off vehicles. I am a trades worker with multiple tickets usually make 180k-200k a year depending on bonuses. The area we live in is obviously a high income and low cost of living due to housing being affordable still. Currently spending roughly 60k-70k a year to live fairly comfortable. I have looked for a few jobs in the areas we want to move and it seems like they average 80k-110k a year. So definitely a drop. The housing is also a lot more expensive. Roughly double the price for a house My wife will make about 70k-80k a year when she goes back in a few years. Starting to wonder if I am just wasting time here or if the high income and low cost is worth it for 4 more years or stat to consider to move now… doesn’t seem like the investment needle moved much anymore like it used to submitted by /u/Elite163 [link] [comments]

Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/AutoModerator [link] [comments]

I’ve made two prior posts about healthcare costs and I’ve gotten some good feedback, so I’ll tempt Reddit fate with one more about planning for healthcare inflation. Early retirees worry a lot about inflation. And especially about healthcare inflation since it is likely to the the #1 cost in retirement, and premiums have been rising fast. However, if your income is under 400% of the Federal Poverty Level, budgeting for healthcare premiums in early retirement is surprisingly straightforward. Just plan for 9.96% of your household AGI (or less). For a couple at the top end of current limits, that means premiums of about $8,400 a year. Here’s an example for a couple at 399% FPL using ACA Silver benchmark Marketplace plans from my area: Age % FPL Annual Premium (Seattle, Couple) Expected Contribution Premium Tax Credit 45 399% $15,837 $8,366 $7,471 50 399% $19,588 $8,366 $11,221 55 399% $24,457 $8,366 $16,091 60 399% $29,766 $8,366 $21,399 64 399% $32,903 $8,366 $24,536 Note that your expected contribution stays the same as you age. Even though nominal premiums rise, the ACA’s premium tax credit automatically adjusts, so your premium remains stable. MAGI limits and ACA subsidies are also indexed for inflation, so your expected contribution stays roughly the same year to year. Yes, of course, this assumes the ACA stays in place. These estimates assume a silver plan, so you’ll have cheaper bronze plans and more expensive gold plans to choose from. If you’re not planning on subsidies, or your income is above 400% FPL, you can still make some estimates. Look online, pick the age you’re retiring (like 50), take the premium rate, and inflate it by at least 8% per year (roughly 4% age-graded increase + 4% healthcare inflation). For example, if the premium at 50 is ~$20,000/year, I think your budget should allow for 20,000×1.08¹⁴ ≈ $57,500 by the time you’re 64. Without the subsidies to insulate you, that is obviously a substantial number to plan for. I know the general withdrawal sequence has people exhausting their taxable accounts first and saving Roth for last, but I think people might hedge a bit to ensure they have ways to carefully manage their MAGI in the final years before they are on Medicare, because that's when income management will matter the most. submitted by /u/bridgeandretire [link] [comments]

Can someone check with Automod's emergency contact? Hope it's okay ... Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/EANx_Diver [link] [comments]

It seems automod might be sleeping in late. Please use this thread to have discussions which you don't feel warrant a new post to the sub. While the Rules for posting questions on the basics of personal finance/investing topics are relaxed a little bit here, the rules against memes/spam/self-promotion/excessive rudeness/politics still apply! Have a look at the FAQ for this subreddit before posting to see if your question is frequently asked. Since this post does tend to get busy, consider sorting the comments by "new" (instead of "best" or "top") to see the newest posts. submitted by /u/EANx_Diver [link] [comments]